A fresher approach to upscale dining
Houlihan’s bartender Kat Thomas serves up an ice-cold Bud Light draft
Houlihan’s brings enthusiasm and made-from-scratch food and drink to North Warren
By Dan McDermott
Warren County Report
Fresh food was the emphasis during a visit to the 97th Houlihan’s Restaurant at the Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites in north Warren County, VA adjacent to the Blue Ridge Shadows Golf course.
The franchise opened for business June 30.
"Did you know that 98% of the food is made from scratch," asked a server?
"I had heard that," I replied. Three times so far to be exact.
And they aren’t kidding.
During a visit into the back of Houlihan’s signature open kitchen (no cameras, please), I encountered a small army in crisp white culinary coats whipping up all sorts of menu items from scratch.
Fish and chicken are brought in fresh, not frozen. The soups and sauces are made from scratch. The breads are baked on the premises. Even the French Onion soup is made slowly in what Gruber notes is the "classic way."
One luxury long since abandoned by most chains are Houlihan’s style of fresh hand-breaded chicken tenders served with homemade honey mustard. There is no comparison to the frozen variety to which we have sadly become accustomed.
One item that caught my eye was a pan of pecans that had just been roasted. "Are these for the Bourbon Pecan pies," I hinted?
No they are actually kind of spicy. They’re salad toppers.
"Oh," I said. And they were delicious. "Savory and spicy with just a hint of sweetness," I complimented using my most impressive Food Network gleaned lingo.
My eyes glanced ever so briefly at the pan of fresh pies nearby.
"Would you like to try the pecan pie," my host suggested?
"Oh, uh sure. I guess..."
Victory!
My guide for this tour through a rare glimpse of fresh-made chain food was 18 year culinary veteran John Gruber who entered the business at a Ground Round before a 13 year stint at Applebees.
Gruber said he was drawn to Houlihan’s because it is pretty upscale, he was thrilled at the emphasis on made-from-scratch food and he was ready for a new challenge. He also loved the resort atmosphere of the chain which got its start in Kansas City in 1972.
The sparkling yet cozy Houlihan’s interior is decorated by similarly themed artwork, some of which features Front Royal. The woodwork above the bar draws you in like a fine British pub. The chandelier shades in the main dining room are a beautiful mosaic of spring colors, each hand created by an artist.
The gentle and refined atmosphere clearly effects the attitude of the largely young staff. They rise to the occasion and ambiance.
Friendly is not a strong enough word to describe them. A half-dozen smiled and welcomed me on my way to my table. One recognized me and gently swept the manager away long enough to give me a hug. But this eager crew is also very professional and inviting.
I asked a few to pose for a picture in a big corner booth. Once the giggling settled down long enough for a nice shot they raced back to their stations, poised and ready with enthusiastic smiles to greet the guests to this new northern oasis.
The Houlihan’s restaurant and bar menus are encased in stylish and surprisingly heavy aluminum covers.
Appetizers range in price from $7.75 for Buffalo-style chicken fingers to the popular herb garlic cream cheese stuffed ‘Shrooms for $8.95.
Entrees are priced from $11.95 for the chicken finger platter with honey mustard, slaw and fries to the USDA prime hand-cut filet steak for $23.95.
Houlihan’s offers a surprisingly affordable lunch menu with sandwich and soup or salad combos starting at $7.95. John’s favorite is the Southwest Chicken Wrap with Baked Potato Soup.
Several sandwiches and 1/2 lb. burgers are offered, ranging in price from $7.95 to $8.95.
From left, Melissa Fisher and Paula Fries serve up Houlihan’s Fab Five dessert platter which costs $10.49 and features any five desserts. This one had the Chocolate Cappuccino Cake, the Mini Snickers Crunch, White Chocolate Banana Cream Pie, a Mini Cream Broule and Bourbon Pecan Pie.
Since no American meal is complete without dessert, Houlihan’s offers several mini desserts (which aren’t so mini) for $2.49. The Three’s Company offers a choice of any three desserts for $5.49. For a true carb-fest, try the Fab Five for $10.49.
Many items are featured on a paper carryout menu, available at the front door.
“Heck no we don’t have last names!” Mike “Smith” and Donnie “Jones” enjoy a cold one at Houlihan’s north of Front Royal.
As Mr. Gruber and I concluded our interview (and I concluded my pecan pie) we were joined by a congenial Tom Jackson, president of Harrisonburg-based Hotel Hospitality Group which owns Houlihan’s and manages the Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites and the Blue Ridge Shadows Gold Course.
Mr. Jackson confirmed that the group is looking toward eventually hosting an LPGA or PGA tournament as the course matures to professional quality play. Blue Ridge Shadows has already made a name for itself on the circuit. Tiger Woods once visited and was reportedly very impressed. Golf Digest named Blue Ridge Shadows the #6 top new course in the nation last year.
This is Mr. Jackson’s first time managing a golf course but he said he likes to golf and that it wasn’t much different than running a large hotel. "There are four people teeing off every ten minutes so there is a lot going on and you have to stay on your toes. But we manage 8 other hotels and we are excited about the challenge."
Workers put the finishing touches on the new Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites north of Front Royal
The Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites will feature 124 rooms, 24 one bedroom suites, a 24-hour business center, a fitness room, full service spa, indoor swimming pool, a conference facility that can accommodate up to 525 people for meetings and can handle banquets for up to 400.
A large part of the conference business is local weddings, reunions and meetings. "Several events are already booked from this summer up to about 2 more years so far," Mr. Jackson said.
Houlihan’s is currently open for lunch and dinner. Effective Tuesday when the hotel opens, the hours will be Sunday - Thursday from 6:30 am to 11 pm and Friday and Saturday from 6:30 am to midnight.
"So," I asked Manager John Gruber, "Do you like it here so far?"
"This will be my last job," he replied with a big grin.
And how was the pecan pie?
Incredible. I’ll have more details after I finish this short nap in my comfy leather desk chair....
